My friend and I have been thinking of something else to do in the southern area of South Korea. We've been all over Seoul in the past and current visit. It's post fall season and there's nothing to find in Naejangsan, most visited mountain of the country during autumn. They say "winter is coming", so what to do before the snow falls?
Wolchulsan 월출산, located at Gyodong-ri, Yeong-am city in the South Jeolla Province of South Korea, presented itself. The internet showed us an orange bridge mid-top of the mountain with white rocks on the background and that's when we decided ..... "gaja (가자)! Let's climb this handsome mountain."
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| mesmerizing view at the cloud bridge of Wolchulsan 월출산 |
* bus schedule: 17:00
* bus fare: KRW 7,000/head
* travel time: approximately 1 hour 30 mins
* first bus schedule: 04:40
* last bus schedule: 22:15
* bus interval: 20 - 60 mins
* coin lockers are available at Gwangju Square Bus Terminal (price: KRW 1000 to 2000)
Google maps: Gwangju Square Bus Terminal (광주종합터미널) going to Yeong-am Bus Terminal (영암여객자동차터미널)
When we arrived at Yeong-am City Bus Terminal (영암여객자동차터미널), darkness is all around us. The simple provincial city is surrounded by empty lots and only the lights from the terminal and nearby motel are visible. We dragged our weary feet and carried our heavy bags to the nearby motel - 리젠시모텔.
Regency Hotel 리젠시호텔 = KRW 20,000 for two heads. Pretty decent place to stay overnight but take note that they do not allow you to use the aircon - additional payment required. We opened the huge window with screen - problem solved! Bed is definitely comfortable with silky sheets and warm beddings. The room is spacious too with free coffee.
* Note: not many restaurants are open at night so better buy your food from where ever you are coming from, since your only bestfriend will be the GS25 (ala 7/11 or mini mart) near the bus terminal.
Woke up at 7 AM and left our things at the reception (no extra charge) by 8 AM. We told the very nice receptionists (old couple) that we will be back after climbing Wolchulsan.
Three options to reach Wolchulsan National Park 월출산국립공원 (pronounced as WOL-CHUL-SAN GUK-RIM GONG-WON):
1. ride taxi with a fare of approximately KRW 6000 and travel time of 20 to 25 minutes
2. 15 minute bus ride from Yeong-am local bus terminal to Cheonhwang Parking Lot 천왕주차장
3. an hour walk from Yeong-am city going to Cheonhwang Parking Lot 천왕주차장
Upon arriving at the parking lot, where you'll be dropped, here's the view that greeted us:
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| hello mountains, seen from the parking lot of Wolchulsan National Park |
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| from the parking lot, head straight up to this cemented road it's a 10 minute walk to Wolchulsan National Park office |
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| passing by this cafe (left) and another restaurant to your right |
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| at the end of the road is the entrance to the campsite with clean toilets |
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| from the campsite, walk to the right to reach Wolchulsan National Park office the mountain view will greet you as well |
Things I love about climbing mountains in Korea:
1. clear trail signs
2. no registration and guides needed
3. some does not require entrance fee
Traverse trail we chose:
Wolchulsan National Park Office - Cheonhwang Campground - Cheonghwangsa Samgeori (junction) - Gureumdari (Cloud Bridge) - pass by Sajabong (Saja peak) - Cheonhwangbong (Cheonhwang peak, 809 masl, highest peak) - going down to Tongcheonmun Samgeori (junction) - Barampokpo (falls) - Cheonghwangsa Samgeori (Junction) - Cheonhwang Campground - Wolchulsan National Park Office
천황야영장 = Cheonhwang Campground/Camp Site +0.3 km
천황사삼거리 = Cheonghwangsa Samgeori (Junction) +0.4 km
구름다리 = Gureumdari (Cloud Bridge) +1.0 km
통천문삼거리 = Tongcheonmun Samgeori (Junction) +1.4 km
천황봉 = Cheonhwangbong (Cheonhwang Peak) 809 masl, highest peak of Wolchulsan
바람폭포 = Barampokpo (Baram Falls) +1.4 km
The path starts with a nice rolling trail then passing by a wooden brown bridge. From there, it is 0.9 km going to Gureumdari 구름다리 (Cloud Bridge). As you hike up, you'll encounter a falls with no name and then there were stairs....stairs and more stairs until you reach 구름다리 Gu-reum-da-ri (Cloud Bridge).
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| in case of emergency, call the no. and indicate your position no. you'll see a lot of these while climbing |
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| some real estate huh! thinking of rock climbing that.... |
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| from Cheonhwangsa Samgeori (junction), these stairs will greet you....and after that...a lot of them |
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| finally, a closer look at the cloud bridge |
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| an hour of photoshoot at Gureumdari (cloud bridge) |
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| pardon us with those faces |
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| cross the bridge and there will be more stairs to reach the highest peak of Wolchulsan, Cheonhwangbong (809 masl) |
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| just halfway there, yet the view is already breathtaking |
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| the struggle is real, the highest peak is now visible |
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| get ready with your trail food, no way you'll never get hungry with this kind of continuous steep path |
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| Cheonhwangbong 천황봉, the highest peak of Wolchulsan |
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| from Cheonhwangbong, Wolchulsan's other peaks are visible |
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| mandatory shot to that huge stone at the peak |
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| 육형제 바위 Yuk-hyeong-je ba-wi [6 Brothers rock] |
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| the cloud bridge is seen from afar on your way to Barampokpo [Baram Falls] |
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| Baram Falls 바람폭포 |
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| 책 바위 chaek-ba-wi [book-shaped rock] |
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| note that there are no toilets along the trail hence, do not forget to visit this near the campsite |
It took us more than 8 hours to climb up and down Wolchulsan. It was supposed to be 3 to 5 hours only. What happened was, we met a lot of old Korean climbers (ahjussis and ahjummas) trying to have a conversation while, some asked us to take their photos. Main question from them: "Are you married?" (hahaha) The painful answer of 아닙니다 (No) is quite a shock to them knowing that we are at our 30s.
It's past 5PM when we reached the campsite. The issue at hand is "how do we go back to our hotel from Wolchulsan National Park?" No more taxis in the parking lot and if we walk back to town, it'll be totally dark. We didn't bring headlamps and it's a 30 minute walk in the highway that has lamp posts. That day, we need to catch our 7:30 PM flight to Jeju at Gwangju International Airport.
I was looking at the posters at the information center for any phone numbers to call a taxi when two ahjussis came out from an office at the parking lot. They kept calling us and waving their hands saying "come over here" in Korean. Good thing, I can understand a bit of their language. We hesitated because we thought they might be drunk. Twilight has befallen and we cannot see their faces clearly. The ahjussi was asking why we spent 9 hours climbing the mountain. He saw us arrived that morning and was worried that he has not seen us come down. They asked where we are staying and if we have any transportation. I explained the dilemma. Luckily, they insisted that they will drive us to Regency Hotel. We refused several times but, the other ahjussi was pushing us inside the car and kept saying that it is alright 괜찮아.
I was looking at the posters at the information center for any phone numbers to call a taxi when two ahjussis came out from an office at the parking lot. They kept calling us and waving their hands saying "come over here" in Korean. Good thing, I can understand a bit of their language. We hesitated because we thought they might be drunk. Twilight has befallen and we cannot see their faces clearly. The ahjussi was asking why we spent 9 hours climbing the mountain. He saw us arrived that morning and was worried that he has not seen us come down. They asked where we are staying and if we have any transportation. I explained the dilemma. Luckily, they insisted that they will drive us to Regency Hotel. We refused several times but, the other ahjussi was pushing us inside the car and kept saying that it is alright 괜찮아.
The ahjussi who brought us back safely to town is none other than the president of Wolchulsan National Park. *wink* 너무 너무 감사합니다 사장님.
